A brief history of snuff

Nasal snuff originated in the Americas, where Indigenous Caribbean peoples were observed inhaling powdered tobacco preparations by Christopher Columbus’s crew in the late 15th century.  The practice spread to Europe in the 16th century, initially promoted as a medicinal treatment for ailments like migraines and colds, notably after French diplomat Jean Nicot recommended it to Queen Catherine de’ Medici in the 1560s. 

By the 17th and 18th centuries, snuff became a pervasive fashion among the European elite, particularly in England and France, where it was used as a stimulant and social lubricant.  Its popularity surged in England after the 1702 capture of Spanish ships carrying vast quantities of snuff, which flooded the market and drastically reduced prices, making it accessible to the general public. 

Although nasal snuff declined in the United States by the late 1700s in favor of dipping tobacco, it remained a cultural staple in Europe.  In Sweden, the tradition evolved into snus, a moist snuff placed under the lip, which gained significant popularity in the 19th and 20th centuries as an alternative to smoking.  Today, while no longer a mainstream habit, snuff is still produced by historic manufacturers and used by enthusiasts. 

Snuff etiquette in the 18th century functioned as a complex social code that reinforced class hierarchies, facilitated courtship, and signaled political allegiance. 
 The ritual of taking snuff was not merely about consumption but was a performative act of gentility, where the mastery of specific gestures distinguished the elite from the common masses. 

The Language of the Tabatière

The handling of the snuffbox evolved into a non-verbal communication system known as the “language of the tabatière” (language of the snuffbox).  Because the ritual was highly codified, specific movements conveyed distinct messages without a word being spoken.

• Courtship and Flirtation: The manner in which a box was offered or closed could signal romantic interest or rejection. For instance, flicking snuff from one’s coat might be a discreet invitation to a ball, while the speed of closing the lid could indicate eagerness or dismissal. 
• Political and Social Bonds: Offering one’s box to a stranger was a recognized method of securing an introduction, while sharing snuff among men cemented homosocial political alliances. The boxes themselves often contained secret compartments with portraits or inscriptions that served as private tokens of affection or political favor. 

Ritual as a Class Marker

The elaborate twelve-step ritual associated with snuff-taking served as a barrier to entry for the lower classes.  A proper gentleman was expected to execute these steps with “negligent air” and grace:

1. Take the box with the right hand and pass it to the left.
2. Rap the box three times to settle the powder.
3. Open the lid and present it to the company.
4. Gather the snuff by striking the side of the box.
5. Take a pinch and hold it momentarily for effect.
6. Inhale without sneezing, grimacing, or spilling a grain.
7. Close the box with a flourish. 

Mastery of this sequence, particularly the ability to inhale without sneezing (a common reaction for novices), was a definitive sign of sophistication and breeding. While the wealthy performed these delicate maneuvers, the working classes generally smoked pipes or chewed tobacco, habits that required no such ceremonial finesse.  Notable figures like Samuel Johnson famously defied these norms, taking enormous pinches directly from his pocket and spilling snuff on his coat, a act that highlighted his eccentricity rather than his status. 

Material Culture and Identity

The snuffbox itself was an essential accessory, acting as a portable resume of its owner’s wealth and taste. 

• Status Symbols: Boxes ranged from simple wood to ornate gold, enamel, and jeweled creations. The material and craftsmanship immediately identified the owner’s social standing. 
• Fashion and Gender: The trend influenced clothing design, necessitating the development of specific pockets in coats and skirts to hold these boxes. It also drove the ubiquity of the handkerchief, as sneezing was a frequent side effect. 
• Self-Fashioning: Portraits of the era frequently depicted subjects in the act of taking snuff to project an image of leisure, intellect, and refinement. The box was an extension of the body, constantly handled and displayed to animate the owner’s identity in social spaces.